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quick_tips [2017/10/08 13:03]
192.168.1.194
quick_tips [2017/10/10 22:54] (current)
192.168.1.194
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 ===== Keeping Leggings extra stretchy with Babylock ===== ===== Keeping Leggings extra stretchy with Babylock =====
  
-Leggings need to be really comfy and very stretchy both at the hem and waistline. They are cut to fit and as they are being pulled over the waist, those coverstitches may need to stretch 25% or more. Here is an example of settings for cotton lycra with regular polyester overlocking thread on cones. I sew the hem with the leg turned inside out and stretching gently while sewing, to work as much thread as possible into every cm/inch.+Leggings need to be really comfy and very stretchy both at the hem and at the waistline. They are designed ​to fit and as they are being pulled over the waist f.ex., those coverstitches may need to stretch 25% or more. Here is an example of settings for cotton lycra with regular polyester overlocking thread on cones. I sew the hem with the leg turned inside out and stretching gently while sewing, to work as much thread as possible into every cm/inch.
  
 SETTINGS for the Babylock CoverStitch:​ SETTINGS for the Babylock CoverStitch:​
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 {{:​quicktips:​hemming_leggings_while_stretching.jpg?​800x600}} {{:​quicktips:​hemming_leggings_while_stretching.jpg?​800x600}}
  
-I have pressed the hem so it is easy to guide the edge along the 2,5cm mark on the piece of tape on the bed of the machine.+I have pressed the hem so it is easy to guide the edge along the 2,5cm mark on the piece of tape on the bed of the machine. Actually it may be a good idea to guide the right edge just 1mm to the right of the 2.5cm mark to make sure that the edge of the fabric on the wrong side is fully covered by the looper thread.
  
  
 {{:​quicktips:​leggings_stretchy_hem.jpg?​800x600}} {{:​quicktips:​leggings_stretchy_hem.jpg?​800x600}}
  
-The waistband especially needs to be extra stretchy. The stitches are really close together but still neatly interlocking. Please notice how setting the tension for needle 1 on 2.5 is necessary when there is only one layer. If I would use a higher tension here, this would result in tunneling. ​+The waistband especially needs to be extra stretchy. The stitches are really close together but still neatly interlocking. Please notice how setting the tension for needle 1 on 2.5 is necessary when piercing ​only one layer to avoid tunneling. ​For more details check [[The Janome 2000 CPX#​Tunnelling when the left needle pierces 1 layer of fabric|this]]
  
 {{:​quicktips:​leggings_waistline.jpg?​800x600}} {{:​quicktips:​leggings_waistline.jpg?​800x600}}
 +
  
  
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 I always feel reluctant to offer "​setting recipes"​ because every combination of machine, fabric and thread may require some testing and adjusting. When I tried the settings for the Babylock in the example above on a Janome Coverpro, I promptly got some skipped stitches when going over a side seam. I always feel reluctant to offer "​setting recipes"​ because every combination of machine, fabric and thread may require some testing and adjusting. When I tried the settings for the Babylock in the example above on a Janome Coverpro, I promptly got some skipped stitches when going over a side seam.
  
-The Janome instruction manual recommends switching the looper to "tight" to avoid skipped stitches. I have not been able to get consistent good results with that adjustment.  +The Janome instruction manual recommends switching the looper to "TIGHT" to avoid skipped stitches. I have not been able to get consistent good results with that adjustment.  
-My observation is that when I adjust the settings to get the stitches closer together to increase the stretch for leggings or other tight fitting garments, the risk of stitches skipping when going over a side seam or hump is related as much or even more to the tension on the needle thread, the left needle thread in particular. I explained ​this here +My observation is that when I adjust the settings to get the stitches closer together to increase the stretch for leggings or other tight fitting garments, the risk of stitches skipping when going over a side seam or hump is related as much or even more to the tension on the needle thread, the left needle thread in particular. ​ 
 + 
 +One possible solution that seems to work well for me is to stop sewing just before getting to a seam or an increasing number of layers. Then switch the looper to TIGHT and increase the tension on the left needle by 1 to 1.5 points, sew over the hump and then switch back to SOFT and the lower needle tension.  
 +I explained ​the reason for different needle tensions [[The Janome 2000 CPX#​Tunnelling when the left needle pierces 1 layer of fabric|here]]. 
 + 
 +Here are the SETTINGS for the Janome 2000CPX: 
 + 
 +Stitch length 3 
 + 
 +Differential 0.625  
 + 
 +{{:​quicktips:​dif_stl_setting_for_leggings.jpg?​800x600|}} 
 + 
 +Needle 1 tension 3 
 + 
 +Needle 3 tension 4.5 
 + 
 +Looper tension 0 
 + 
 +{{:​quicktips:​settings_for_stretchy_hem_soft.jpg?​800x600|}} 
 + 
 +Please note that the TIGHT setting at zero puts more tension on the thread than the SOFT setting. Zero is a relative value in this case.  
 + 
 +{{:​quicktips:​settings_for_stretchy_hem_tight.jpg?​800x600|}} 
 + 
 +This is the way it looks after hemming, a bit wavy but that is perfectly fine. 
 + 
 +{{:​quicktips:​stretchy_hem_wavy_is_normal.jpg?​800x600|}} 
 + 
 +After pressing the hem will be perfect! 
 + 
 +{{:​quicktips:​press_stretchy_hem.jpg?​800x600|}} 
 + 
 +Just before reaching the hump I switch the settings and and once I get about 1 cm - 1/2" past the seam, I return to the previous settings. 
 + 
 +{{:​quicktips:​switch_here.jpg?​800x600|}} 
 + 
 +And all the stitches close together and neatly interlocking on the wrong side. 
 + 
 +{{:​quicktips:​sample_stretchy_wrong_side.jpg?​800x600|}} 
 + 
  
 ===== Accessory number one for the Janome Coverstitch ===== ===== Accessory number one for the Janome Coverstitch =====
quick_tips.1507460637.txt.gz · Last modified: 2017/10/08 13:03 by 192.168.1.194