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--- attaching_elastic [2017/10/08 16:47]
192.168.1.194
+++ attaching_elastic [2017/10/08 19:15]
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@@ Line 73: / Line 73: @@
 {{:elastic:detail_of_elastic_with_serged_edge_covered_by_loope.jpg?800x600|}}
-And here is an example of the SETTINGS used to apply the same elastic with a Janome 2000 CPX with the 2 needle wide coverstitch:
+And here is an example of the SETTINGS used to apply the same elastic with a Janome 2000 CPX with the 2 needle wide coverstitch, polyester serger thread in the needles and polyester stretch thread in the looper:
 Stitch length 3 ++
@@ Line 85: / Line 85: @@
 Needle 3 tension 6
-Looper tension 2 2/3 TIGHT
+Looper tension 2.75 TIGHT
 {{:elastic:needle_looper_settings_boxers.jpg?800x600|}}
@@ Line 93: / Line 93: @@
 {{:elastic:2cm_wide_elastic_with_2_needle_wide.jpg?800x600|}}
-===== Waistband and elastic how to =====
+===== How to attach elastic to the waistband =====
-When I am sewing for my family, I usually prefer to make a buttonhole along the waistline, then create a tunnel and insert the elastic later. That way I can cut a little extra and adjust it as desired. To prevent curling inside the tunnel I usually stitch a few stitches in the ditch at center front.
+When I am sewing for my family, I usually prefer to make a buttonhole along the waistline, then create a tunnel and insert the elastic later. That way I can cut a little extra and adjust the elastic as desired. To prevent curling inside the tunnel, I usually stitch a few stitches in the ditch at the center front seam.
-But when the waist measurements are known, this is an easy way to attach the elastic with a serger, turn over and top stitch with the coverstitch machine.
+However, when the waist measurements are known accurately, attaching the elastic with the overlocker makes a perfect non roll finish.
+I start by sewing the elastic into a ring, using a zigzag or triple zigzag on my sewing machine. Then I quarter mark both the elastic and the edge of the pants and I pin, matching the quarter marks.
-I start by sewing the elastic into a ring, using a zigzag or triple zigzag on my sewing machine. Then I quarter mark both the elastic and the edge of the pants and I pin matching the quarter marks.
+{{:elastic:4_mark_pants_and_elastic.jpg?800x600|}}
+I have taken the serger threads apart so that I can position the edge of the fabric and the elastic against the locked blade and then I lower the needles by hand before starting to sew.
+{{:elastic:unravel_serger_threads_so_that_elastic_can_be_put_in_place_needles_down.jpg?800x600|}}
+Here I am stretching the elastic to match the the fabric. My settings on the Babylock Enlighten are: stitch length 3.5 and differential 1.5. The cutting blade is locked down. These settings may need to be adjusted on other sergers. My previous serger always wanted a higher differential to get the same results. I suggest that you test this on a couple of scraps.
+{{:elastic:stretching_elastic_to_match_fabric.jpg?800x600|}}
+This is what it looks like when the elastic is attached.
+{{:elastic:elastic_attached_with_serger.jpg?800x600|}}
+SETTINGS for the Janome 2000 CPX with polyester serger thread in the needles and polyester stretch thread in the looper:
+Stitch length 3.5
+Differential 1.75
+{{:elastic:stitch_length_and_dif_setting_for_elastic_waistband.jpg?800x600|}}
+Here I have adjusted the pressure on the foot by turning the knob clockwise to lower it to 9mm. I prefer more pressure on the foot when attaching elastic because this will prevent the fabric slipping when I am stretching the elastic.
+{{:elastic:pressure_on_foot_adjusted_to_9mm.jpg?800x600|}}
+Left needle 4.5
+Right needle 6
+Looper 2.75 TIGHT
+{{:elastic:needle_and_looper_settings_elastic_waistband.jpg?800x600|}}
+I have positioned the waistband in such a way that the left needle will penetrate just to the left of the elastic. Please notice how all the threads are interlocking nicely and the tension for the left needle is balanced. If it were too high, a ridge would form along the edge of the elastic.
+{{:elastic:looper_side_all_threads_interlocking_properly_left_needle_lower_tension.jpg?800x600|}}
+I need to stretch the waistband with both hands while top stitching.
+{{:elastic:stretching_with_both_hands.jpg?800x600|}}
+The finished waistband:
+{{:elastic:wrong_side_coverstitched_waistband.jpg?800x600|}}
+{{:elastic:finished_waistband_elastic_topstitched.jpg?800x600|}}

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